Old Caley's Diary: Lazy Old Blogger #6; Scotland June 2022

Saturday 11 June, Dunnet Head

Usually whilst on holiday in Scotland we head to Handa Island for a fix of seabirds but just recently we've become bored of that experience for various reasons. So we now make Dunnet Head in the far north of the country our destination. The cliffs there may not have the sheer number of birds that Handa has and views are more limited but we have much more freedom there and don't have to wait on boats to get there or to leave. All of the desired species can be seen at Dunnet Cliffs. Puffins, Great & Arctic Skuas and the more common residents of a seabird colony are all present and will be seen with patience.

The day we chose to go was very windy which isn't great weather to be out in when walking close to the edge of massive cliffs and there was the threat of heavy rain showers too. But the parking area is close by and there is a panoramic view of the whole area so any approaching rough weather can be seen coming, normally allowing for time to get back to the sanctuary of the car.

On this visit we began by finding some of the Puffins that were hunkering down on the cliff face by the lighthouse. For a while I tried to ignore the Bonxies that were patrolling menacingly along the cliffs but they quickly became too difficult to ignore.

Great Skua (Stercorarius skua)

A few Puffins were involved with refurbishing their nest burrows, ripping up grass from the cliff edge and then taking it underground. Puffins are always fun to watch whatever they're doing. Even after years of photographing them it's just too hard to resist them.

Puffin (Fratercula arctica)

It was the Arctic Skua that I most wanted to see, and as a rain shower approached I spotted one flying towards us. Arctic Skuas are the most dynamic of fliers and are true tyrants of the air. They combine their own menace with artistry and grace whereas the Great Skuas appear as imposing bullies.

Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus)

Fulmars are present in good numbers and sail along the cliff edge, seemingly always wearing a smile as they appear to have great fun gliding in the updrafts. Kittiwakes call raucously everywhere.

Fulmar (Fulmarus glacialis)

There are Rock Doves here as well, as true to the purity of the species as it's possible to get on the Scottish mainland.

Rock Dove (Columba livia)

On this visit I neglected to take more photos of Guillemots and Razorbills but enjoyed watching them fly to and from the cliffs and peered down at them on the water far below. I just couldn't resist taking more images of a whimsical Puffin amongst the sea thrift.

Year List additions;

237) Rock Dove, 238) Great Skua, 239) Arctic Skua

Sunday 12 June; Lochindorb and Surrounding Area

Rain marred the early morning so we tarried at the cottage. I spent some time photographing some of the visitors to the garden feeders. There were already several newly fledged youngsters around the garden.

Siskin (Spinus spinus)

Blackbird (Turdus merula)

Blue Tit (Cyanistes caeruleus)

Dunnock (Prunella modularis)

A short drive around Lochindorb before our traditional Sunday lunch at the Garth hotel in Grantown yielded Red Grouse as expected but no close views of the resident Black-throated Divers which normally take refuge close to the far bank when the road becomes busy and fisherman and other recreationists line the roadside bank. We found some Red Grouse chicks too.

Red Grouse (Lagopus lagopus scotica)

After an afternoon snooze we ventured back out in the evening. Lochindorb was quieter then, the day-trippers had gone home and ours was the only car patrolling along the shore. We were in luck too because one of the adult Black-throated Divers was actively fishing close to the roadside. When the Diver is close it is imperative to stay in the car, then it will be undisturbed and carry on fishing, and the watcher can get some superb views of the bird.

Black-throated Diver (Gavia arctica)

And what a beautiful bird a Black-throated Diver is too. A stunning combination of blacks and greys with two rich ruby red eyes. I had only had this cherished encounter with a Black-throat once before here and I blew my chance to get some nice photos, defeated as I was by the low sun shining directly at me and silhouetting the bird. This time I was determined to do better. The Diver was always travelling the same way, clockwise around the loch so all of my photos were of its left side!

When the Diver had swum away by its own accord we continued on our route along the loch stopping to admire one of the feisty little Common Sandpipers which watched us carefully and scolded at us if we stayed too long.

Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)

We encountered the Diver again further along the loch, still hunting unperturbed. And I managed to capture its right side, well most of it anyway. We also came across a fresh juvenile Red-breasted Merganser which could have only just become independent from its mother.

Red-breasted Merganser (Mergus serrator)

The finale to a terrific evenings entertainment came as we sidled alongside a Curlew that hunted for worms in the soft grassy bank of the loch. The Curlew took no heed of us at all and would even walk up towards the car allowing for some amazing close-up photography.

Curlew (Numenius arquata)

The night was completed by a Tawny Owl flying across the road as we neared the cottage and with Woodcocks roding above the cottage roof. I love this place.

Monday 13 June; Forest Walk

See Lazy Old Blogger #5

Tuesday 14 June; Another Forest

We walk the forest tracks a lot. We fell in love with the pinewoods the very first time we walked through one and that love will never die. Twenty-five years ago, virtually every walk would result in at least one sighting of a Capercaillie. Sadly this is no longer the case with numbers of the huge forest grouse dwindling to the point of collapse. We play our part in not disturbing the birds by staying out of the forests in the early morning and generally only visiting later in the day. It's now been years since we last saw a real live "Horse of the Woods" but the signs are still there that they exist, if you know what to look for.

This walk was unremarkable, birds were hard to find and although we managed to winkle out some more Crested Tits and Crossbills, the only bird that wanted its photo taken was a Tree Pipit, and that eyed us warily as it perched waiting to deliver a beak full of goodies to its nestlings. We quickly moved on and left the parent bird to its duties.

Tree Pipit (Anthus trivialis)

Wednesday 15 June; A trip away from Speyside

There are some birds that are high on any birders "want to see list" while in the Highlands. The Slavonian Grebe is one of those. Luckily there are a couple of well known locations to see them although to get the best views of them, generally requires an early start and arrival at the site before they are disturbed by lots of visitors later on.

We also know of another place away from Speyside where there are breeding Slavonian Grebes and they can safely be viewed from a public footpath. Slavonian Grebes are another schedule 1 breeding species so should not be disturbed at or near to a nest. We sit on a bench and wait for the Grebes to swim past or we watch them as they fish in the lochan. As usual it was raining but one bird provided us with a memorable hour or so.

Slavonian Grebe (Podiceps auritus)

We drove past a loch where Wood Sandpipers breed. Again views are very distant from a roadside lay-by but I managed to eke out a couple of the waders patrolling the shoreline.

We continued westwards to a White-tailed Eagle territory. A pair of birds nest on an island that can be viewed from a few hundred metres away so the views are distant but if the birds are visible then the scope allows a reasonable look of our largest bird of prey. On this occasion it took a while to find either of the birds but eventually I found one perched up in a tree at the seaward end of the island. Heat shimmer and distance made photography difficult. For best views of White-tailed Eagles it is best to visit a place where specialist boats take you out to a territory and even better if they "feed" the birds with freshly caught fish. We were also spotted a Golden Eagle over a distant ridge.

White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla)

Close by, while we were searching in vain for an Otter, we spotted a pair of Red-breasted Mergansers lazily swimming along a rocky inlet.

Continuing on the "distant view" theme on our way back to Speyside, I stopped suddenly because I saw some birds perched up on a wire fence. The birds turned out to be a family of Twite but they were gone before I could grab the camera and gain a record shot.

Year List additions;

240) White-tailed Eagle, 241) Twite

Thursday 16 June; Forest and Sea

We walked along one of our favourite tracks in the pine forest and were dismayed that it had been trashed. And in the name of conservation too! But it's all in a good cause apparently, because the herd of cattle that are roaming free, are there to improve the forest and make it more suitable to Capercaillie. Once again we didn't see any of the forest grouse, and this time we didn't see any signs of them either. Crested Tits were however, again seen in good numbers.

Crested Tit (Lophophanes cristatus)

With little new to do and the end of the holiday looming, we headed north in the afternoon and to Brora where a large Gull roost contained an immature Glaucous Gull which according to reports was showing close in at the mouth of the river. Unfortunately though we had to make do with distant views of the Gull, which took a bit of finding despite it sticking out like a sore thumb once discovered, as it roosted on a reef with hundreds of other gulls.

Glaucous Gull (Larus hyperboreus)

Year List addition;

242) Glaucous Gull

Friday 17 June; Last Knockings

For our last day in Scotland for another year we returned to the Moray coast. Starting at Burghead, always good for a gentle stroll, we were hoping to see some wading birds but there were practically none to be found. It was a very breezy day but we braved the headland and were rewarded with a very close flypast from some Fulmars. I always enjoy watching Fulmars glide and soar along cliffs. They're a bird that appear to be loving life.

We stopped at Findhorn Bay but the tide was out and all birds were miles out and virtually impossible to discern owing to an horrendous heat haze. We had better luck on the village side of the bay when we spotted the small flock of a dozen or so Pink-footed Geese that were hanging around the area for the summer, for a very belated year tick.

We rounded off our trip back at Lossiemouth and by watching the Ospreys fish on the river. Low tide is the best time to see the Ospreys since their fish prey is concentrated into two deeper pools. Even as we parked up, we saw an Osprey which immediately caught a Flounder.

Osprey (Pandion haliaetus)

The next Osprey to arrive was also successful first time. Unfortunately it chose the more distant pool to catch its own fish. No matter though, seeing Ospreys hunt is something I'd happily watch everyday if I could.

The Osprey must have known that it was our last day and had the grace to provide us with a nice close flypast, while it shook the water off its feathers, as it headed back to its nest with its bounty.