A Lifer, At Last! But Which One? 17-18th October 2019

With the birding so slow in West Penwith we were out on the Lizard again, this time at Kynance Cove, on Thursday morning. This was our third trip there this week and I wondered if we should have rented a cottage there instead of where we did! We were hoping to find a Red-backed Shrike that had been found the day previously, north of Kynance Cove close to Predannack Airfield. It would entail a decent length walk to an area we knew very little about but I'd studied the maps and information available about the sighting. We didn't need Red-backed Shrike for our year list because we'd seen four on a Red Letter Day in Aberdeenshire in June, a day that also yielded a fabulous Blyth's Reed Warbler.

I usually try to avoid parking in National Trust car parks but today, as in September when we twitched the Brown Booby from the same place, I had to shell out six quid which made me feel exactly like the proverbial poorly Cephalopod! The heavy rain of the past few days had turned the path into a quagmire in places and, on the hillier parts, it resembled a fast flowing mini river as water run-off cascaded down hill. Birds were keeping low even though the sun shone brightly for a change. We bottomed out where the path crosses a stream and did find a Firecrest and some accompanying Goldcrests but all were too frisky to follow and capture on memory card. Apart from a couple of exceptions I wasn't having my best moments so far with the camera on this trip!

A couple of miles later, despite searching far and wide and scrutinising every likely looking spot, there was no sign of the Red-backed Shrike. The only birds that we'd seen were a large flock of Meadow Pipits, sadly not containing a hoped for Richard's, and a pair of Ravens that appeared to be having fun dive bombing a herd of cattle creating much bovine annoyance. We had exhausted our search so turned back and retraced our steps back to the car park. I noticed a couple of thrush sized birds flying towards us which then flew right over our heads. I tentatively called out to Mrs Caley, Ring Ouzels! I was pretty sure that's what they were, they could have been Blackbirds, but I'm sure I noticed lighter wing panels as they whirred past and they seemed a bit bulky. Our luck was in however, when two of the birds circled back and landed amongst nearby rocks. They were indeed Ring Ouzels, both female types, so my snap judgement was at least correct. At least we had something to watch and I had birds to photograph!

Ring Ouzel, female

The Ring Ouzels were interested in the berries sported by the heather plants and after checking out the immediate area began furtively feeding. Ring Ouzels are wary birds though and they were always restless and most often perched on one of the rocks to further survey the area.

In response to the loud "chacking" sound made by the third bird which had landed in bushes to the West but which couldn't be seen, the two females took to the air and joined in the noisy chorus. They were united with the other bird which flew up from the bushes which was a fine male with a very prominent white bib. All three birds whirled around and flew over our heads and then disappeared northwards.

It was midday when we refound the carpark so we elected to find some sustenance. We had considered walking down to Kynance Cove itself and visiting the cafe there but didn't really fancy the hike back up the hill! Instead we enjoyed a fabulous slice of cake and coffee at a local garden centre, Tregenna Cross garden cafe is highly recommended, while debating our plans for the afternoon. While we were in the cafe the heavens opened up outside and the rain came teeming down once again so further walking was postponed for another day, we had considered investigating Prussia Cove and Perranuthnoe where I had finally nailed the Hudsonian Whimbrel at the fourth attempt a few years ago.

The rain increased in intensity as we drove back to St Just so we actually decided to call it a day and head back for a restful afternoon at the cottage, not something I enjoy doing since I hate wasting time indoors when I could be out birding! We were barely out of the car when a double volley of local bird news hit my mobile screen. First there was a report of an Icterine Warbler at Sennen Cove which was followed quickly by a sighting of a Subalpine Warbler at Cot Valley. We had never seen a Subalpine Warbler before whereas we already had a couple of Icterine Warblers in the bag from previous trips to Scotland so the decision where to go was an easy one.

The Subalpine Warbler had been seen at the top of the Cot Valley close to the Youth Hostel so rather than park in the valley I chose to park at the Kelynack junction and walk in. That was fine to begin with but halfway along the access road the rain started falling again and increased in intensity as we found the small group of ten or so fellow twitchers. They were all stood intently looking at a small bush about ten metres away from the road. I asked a chap, incidentally the finder of the bird, for details of the sighting and he explained how he'd found the bird perched on top of the said small bush about an hour or so before. It was definitely a Subalpine Warbler but a juvenile or female type and had disappeared into the bush. Apart from a brief flight view when the Warbler had flitted from the bush to another close by and then returned, it hadn't been seen subsequently.

So we now knew that the bird was almost definitely in the bush somewhere but in the heavy rain, which was soaking us through to the core, was bound to be keeping low. Josh joined us, by some stroke of luck he had booked into the Youth Hostel just before the bird had been found. The heavy rain shower passed and those with weather radar Apps checked to see how long it would be until the next one arrived, the big yellow splotches across the phone screens indicating that it wouldn't be long!

Then there was some slight movement in the left side of the bush as a small longish tailed bird appeared but partially hidden by twigs. Within seconds it had dived back into the mass of leaves again. I hadn't seen the head and my only impression was of a small light grey-brown backed bird with that long tail, resembling a pale, small and slender Blackcap which of course is a fellow Sylvia family member. The original finder and others were convinced that the bird was the Subalpine Warbler so tentatively I added it to my year list and to my life list to boot. But I was less than satisfied with that view and would need more to convince myself that I had indeed seen it. As the birders unwritten code goes, "if you can't positively identify a bird yourself then you shouldn't be counting it". But identification skills vary from birder to birder and I'm by no means an expert and occasionally have to rely on others to help to confirm a birds identity so this was no different. 

For the next hour or so there was no further sign of the Subalpine Warbler with only a Dunnock and then a Wren, which briefly appeared in the same bush and had me going since I excitedly managed to secure a couple of photos only to be deflated when viewing the shots on the back of the camera, livening things up. Another squall passed over leaving us wet through again and people began drifting away. We'd had enough too but just as we were about to leave a fellow watcher called "Merlin!" and looking up I could see the small Falcon hurtling towards us. I pointed the camera and took some shots but the settings were all wrong against the grey sky so I'm still waiting to get a decent photo of a Merlin. Nice to see though!

Merlin

As we drove along the muddy farm track made even muckier by the rain, our car will need a deep clean when we get home, we had to pull over to allow a farm worker out. I noticed a movement to the left and there in a small puddle was a Green Sandpiper! Birding always surprises, I never expected to see such a bird in such a small pool of water but I guess migrating birds are happy to take any opportunities to feed. Before I could get the camera pointed at it though the Sandpiper flew off across the field calling rapidly.

Friday, our last full day of the trip, dawned with heavy rain once again battering the lean-to roof that covered the cottage kitchen. I had sort of made the decision to go and look for the Subalpine Warbler at first light thinking that in the inclement conditions of the previous evening that it would have hunkered down and stayed in the same area, but this mornings continued rain had me hesitating and then changing my mind with a trip Pendeen for some sea watching from the car more appealing. We finally ventured out around nine o'clock. As I loaded the gear into the boot my mobile buzzed away and informed me that the Subalpine Warbler had been seen again in the same place. Why, oh why, don't I stick with my convictions and act on them sometimes?

Ten minutes later, I parked much closer this time in a disused gateway, we joined just half a dozen other hardy souls on the road overlooking the same bushes where the Warbler had been found the day before. Noticeably there were a few eminent Cornish birders amongst them. Over the next hour we were soaked through from a heavy shower, dried out a bit in warm sunshine then drenched again as another belt of rain rattled through. I was heartened, and a tad disappointed, when I spoke to the chap who had refound the bird this morning. Heartened because I knew that the bird was definitely still in and around the small ivy covered hawthorn bush, but disappointed because if I had stuck to my guns and gone straight to Cot earlier then I could have found the bird for myself! After all and apparently, it was perched right on top of the bush! But for now Mrs Caley and myself peered at and into the bush just hoping that the Subalpine Warbler would show again. There was a false alarm when a Dunnock flew from one bush to another which was then mistakenly put out as a sighting of the Subalpine Warbler by an over eager birder but then at 10:20 the Subalpine Warbler did put in a very brief appearance when it appeared at the right end of the hawthorn. Again I didn't see the all important head! A few minutes later the small bird, unmistakable now since there was nothing else it could have been on colouration itself, flitted across to a larger hawthorn but frustratingly dropped down where the bush was obscured by bracken. This was very hard work!

The sun was now shining brightly and we almost forgot that we were still soaking wet from the rain of before. Then a call went up, "There in the bracken!". I'd seen the bird fly into the bracken to the left of the hawthorn and automatically raised the camera and fired off a volley of shots. The bird had been on view for less than a couple of seconds and through the viewfinder I had seen nothing! I quickly checked the back of the camera and couldn't see any bird on any of the images. Dammit, why didn't I just look through my bins at the bird but to be fair it all happened so fast that I probably wouldn't have focussed them quickly enough anyway! The good news was that Mrs Caley saw the bird and better than I did at that! I asked a couple of chaps stood next to me, one of whom had called the bird, whether they had got any photos. One of them had just managed to capture the warblers tail! Over the next hour and a half we saw the Subalpine Warbler in flight a couple more times but we never got the clear view that we wanted. At midday we gave up!

So, imagine my absolute delight and surprise back at the cottage later, when I studied the images that I thad taken. In the last few frames I had actually managed to capture the Subalpine Warbler! Without any doubt too, it was definitely the bird even though I'd failed to get its head yet again. 

female Subalpine Warbler, Cot Valley 18/10/2019

Of course twenty minutes after we'd left the Subalpine Warbler appeared right at the top of the bush once again and perched in full view for a few seconds! Next time I invest six hours into getting a good view I must tell myself to give it another twenty minutes! Fellow Oxon/Berks birder Marek Walford obtained these really good images shown below. Lucky fellow! There are two species of Subalpine Warbler which has been recently split into Eastern and Western varieties. Unfortunately female types can't be differentiated between in the field so the sighting has to be recorded as Subalpine Warbler species but either way it was a lifer for us and made it #274 for the year.

Subalpine Warbler (courtesy of Marek Walford)

We had left to go into Penzance for two reasons. One we wanted to eat some fish and chips by the sea, always tastes better, and secondly there was a bird that had been showing really well in the marina that we wanted to see. The fish lunch was excellent but there was no sign whatsoever of our target bird in either of the two harbours. Also the tide was out which had left very shallow water and lots of mud behind so we weren't confident of finding the bird either. We checked out the beach and rocks by the Jubilee Pool where we found Ringed Plovers and Turnstones but no Purple Sandpipers.

Ringed Plover

Turnstone

Returning to the harbour the only birds in it were a couple of Shags and some Herring Gulls. We  looked into every corner of both basins and made sure that we checked in between every moored boat but there was still no sign of our goal. 

Shag

Then on our fourth sweep I spotted it, a Red-throated Diver way out beyond the harbour wall. We walked out along the permissive path to the end of the harbour wall where the Diver was floating on the sea preening. I had seen many cracking photos of the bird but at the distance it was out from us I wouldn't be getting any to match! I had never obtained a decent photo of a Red-throated Diver in summer plumage, this bird was still sporting much of its breeding finery, and after the trials and tribulations associated with seeing the Subalpine Warbler earlier, I felt more than a little bit miffed that the Diver was now teasing me by staying out at sea!

Red-throated Diver

Thankfully I have my wife by my side and she urged me to exercise patience and frequently suggested that the Diver was coming closer, even though it wasn't. We could see that the tide had turned but still the bird remained out beyond the harbour walls but then, almost imperceptibly at first, it was indeed swimming, or rather being carried, towards us. At around half the original distance out the Diver did what it does best and dived! When it resurfaced it was right in front of us and I started snapping away. With each dive it halved the gap between us until it was directly underneath us stood on the wall.

The red throat shone resplendently in the bright afternoon sunshine, fairly typical that decent weather would see us on our way home after being awful for most of the week before, and I finally added some reasonable images of a Red-throated Diver to my portfolio. 

The Diver was now fishing earnestly within the harbour and we could watch it really come into its own when under the water. Once submerged the Diver used its powerful legs and feet to propel itself at rapid speed meaning that any quarry wouldn't have a chance once targeted. Mind you judging by the murkiness of the water the Diver would have to have excellent eyesight as well.

I took Mrs Caley back to the cottage and then went back out to see if I could get a better view of the Subalpine Warbler. I didn't and got wet through yet again when another heavy squall descended on that little part of Cornwall and no doubt it was lovely, dry and sunny everywhere else. On my return to the farm track I saw some of the Curlews that I'd been hearing most evenings in one of the fields. Without leaving the car I stopped next to a small gap in the hedge and took some photos of the birds bathed in late afternoon sunshine, amazing that just a few miles away in Cot Valley it was probably snowing!

Curlew

We'd had a good holiday, not our best in Cornwall, but we had still added Red-eyed Vireo, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Cirl Bunting, Barred Warbler and, a lifer, Subalpine Warbler to our year list as well as seeing Yellow-browed Warblers, White-rumped Sandpiper, Firecrests, Turtle Dove. Ring Ouzels, Red-throated Diver, Merlin, Choughs, Spotted Redshank and Spotted Flycatcher amongst others. Not too shoddy!