One of those Facebook memories popped up last Tuesday on my timeline reminding me of a fabulous 3 day break that Mrs Caley and I took in North Wales around this time last year, the highlight of which was attending a black grouse lek. We went to watch the blackcocks (as they are perversely known) twice, once in very foggy conditions and the other in brilliant sunshine. That memory of the impressive mating display burned brightly but at that point on Tuesday evening we had no plans to return. I shared the memory out to my "friends" and received a few questions from a fellow birder about where, how and when did one get to see the spectacle. A fire was relit by recounting the experience to him and by Wednesday and after finishing a job early in the week and the Easter break looming a formative plan was hatched. No time to stay in the area this time however so at 03:30 on the Thursday morning we set out in the car to drive the 140 miles or so in order to be in position by the lek before first light (sunrise was at 06:55 that day but we'd need to be there at least 45 minutes before that). Midweek visits on sunny days are best, both for more room (there is only convenient parking for half a dozen cars) and the sunshine makes for better viewing and photos! Weekends are an absolute no no and the Easter weekend in particular would be nothing short of chaotic.
The journey time was to be about 2 hours 40 minutes and all was fine until we came across warning signs that the M54 was closed. A very slow diversion through the wilds of Wolverhampton (how many sets of traffic lights does that place have?) led us to the outskirts of Telford and back to the motorway where another very helpful warning sign informed us that the A5 was also closed ahead so another diversion via the A41 was in order. Being busy with lorry's this was slower than the intended route and we lost time so didn't find ourselves going up the moorland approach road until 06:45! It was already partially light too. A familiar song by REM had started reverberating around in my head "That's great, it starts with an earthquake, birds and snakes, and aeroplanes, and Lenny Bruce is not afraid...". It always seems to get there whenever I visit this place. We followed a carload of other birders that didn't seem to know where they were going since they stopped at the side of the narrow road and allowed us to pass. This was to our good fortune and to the detriment of theirs since when we crested the hill above the lek area there were already 4 cars in situ and the "lay by parking" was taken. Luckily I was able to park in front of the other cars without blocking the road to other road users although our view would be partially obscured by a mound between us and the birds. The occupants of the car we passed were not so lucky and couldn't find a suitable spot so had to park further away (no love lost in this game!).
The black grouse were already hard at it strutting pompously around with their strong-arm poses and white signals flaring at each other. The lek is a "battleground" of sorts where the male birds all contest amongst themselves in order to win the right to mate with the females. Within the general lek area there will be several mini feuds between just 2 birds going on and it is never a free for all. Sometimes a pair of duelling birds will be challenged by another but generally it appears that the same "pairs" of birds just continually spar with each other. Whether that pairing system remains the same throughout the lekking season I don't know (and really should research) or whether their is some type of "ladder" league system (as at Squash clubs) I don't know either (really really should research). It is difficult to work out even which birds are the most dominant and if they are placed in the middle or on at the outer of the lekking ground (right I'm grabbing my book on black grouse right now! Well when I've finished with this anyway).
The closest birds are only about 30 metres away from the car. I should add that you must stay inside the car to enjoy the lek since if you don't the birds will be gone in a heartbeat. They will tolerate humans encased in hides or cars used as hides but not if you take the cover away. At this still early hour it isn't light enough to take any decent photos so we just watched and listened to the antics playing out in front of us. The sounds that the birds make are every bit a part of the experience as the visuals. The birds utter strange almost "Martian" like "bubbling" noises (if there was such a thing) at each other. As they engage there is a "cooeshhh" sound which is a bit like to my ears "Come On!".
Then as they near each other a strange phrase is usually emitted as if they're asking "who are you?" or "whats your name?". They do this every time they meet which is every few seconds since they retain the same sparring partner! Most frequently after exchanging the pleasantries they just back away and display their white tails at their adversary (and as if to say "oh alright then") but every so often it goes a stage further.and the polite request becomes more hostile. Mainly it's intimidation with much posturing and normally one bird backs down quickly but just occasionally full battle ensues and the birds lock in actual combat and feathers may fly! When a fight takes place then the camera shutters along the line go into overdrive! Unfortunately low light means low shutter speeds so it's not easy to get clear and sharp images.
The sun crests a ridge in the opposite direction (East obviously) to the viewpoint so when it makes it's appearance then the whole of the lekking area is lit up. If it isn't raining that is, which it now was! This is a high moorland area after all and the weather up there is different to normal conditions. Only a shower though and finally at about 07:45 we finally got our first rays of weak sunshine and the chance to get some decent shots.
At that exact time a couple of other interested onlookers turned up in the form of a pair of Canada geese which flew in and landed right in the middle of the lek. Their arrival caused a momentary panic amongst a few of the grouse and a couple flew up and around before settling back in their places allowing me the opportunity to grab some flight shots, the best of which almost won me an accolade! But not quite!
|"The Almost Award Winning Shot!"|
The geese for their part looked totally bemused by it all (almost if they'd been invited to a posh do but had managed to turn up at a teenagers coming of age party instead). Thankfully they didn't join in and disgrace themselves and after a cursory sample peck at the grass on offer exited stage left.
|"You sure this is the right do?"|
|"Best be on our way then..."|
The black grouse continued prancing around until about 08:30 when they grew tired of the whole scene and relaxed and became buddies again. There had been rain, sun, rain again and even a short snow flurry during the proceedings. In fairness the action had been somewhat muted compared to the previous year when it was enlivened by the presence of a female bird (called a greyhen) which raised the blood pressures and testosterone levels up a notch or two. This time there was no sign of any Lady grouse so I guess they must have been having a lie in.
|"Cock of the Rock"|
At it's peak the lek had contained 17 males but many had dispersed quietly during the morning and as we made our leave there were just 6 left and they had given up jousting completely now preferring to eat instead. We made our leave and drove over the moorland road towards a nice cafe that we know of for some much needed sustenance. Part of the way there we noticed another lek (which we knew of) still active but further away on a hillside opposite. This lek was made up of a further 14 male birds although some could have come from the other lek of course.
|"The Other Lek"|
They too had pretty much finished up for the morning and indeed within a few minutes all of them had flown back towards us, over our car and away up into the moors. Except for two which very conveniently landed right next to the road about 50 yards away. I approached very slowly (still in the car) and rattled off a few frames. Both birds strolled across the road and into the heather on the opposite side allowing for very close views before they were disturbed by a couple of cyclists. Do I ever hate cyclists?! Not as much as dog walkers (that allow their dogs off leads and don't control them that is and apologies to my responsible dog owning friends) but almost as much. Their particular pastimes always seem to interfere with my own and always at a detriment since birds are invariably put to flight by them. Plus middle aged men riding bikes while dressed in lycra is a bit weird isn't it? Not that middle aged men dressed in camouflage green and carrying cameras and scopes isn't of course!
Anyway the grouse had gone and our birding fun for the morning was over so it was off to that breakfast and then the return journey home. It had been another terrific few hours spent in the company of one of our most charismatic bird species. Do love the black grouse!
|"The End....As We Know It!"|