Re-installed in our regular and cosy little cottage for the next fortnight we were determined to take it easy for at least the first day. Usually we'd put the boots on and take a walk up into the woods behind the cottage but couldn't summon the energy required so opted instead to drive around Lochindorb and gain an almost guaranteed year tick. Lochindorb is the site of a pair of one of the UK's rarest breeding birds although seeing them usually requires a telescope and views are generally poor. The pair of Black-throated Divers can be found anywhere around the huge shallow Loch but can be difficult to locate if it is windy. On this fine Sunday morning there would be no such problems created by waves and it took me no more than a few minutes to find the pair of birds on the far side of the water. I knew from experience that the birds tend to move furthest from the roadside once traffic and people start trundling around the Loch. If we wanted a better view then we'd have to come back either very early in the morning or after the day-trippers had gone home. For now though, the year tick would suffice.
We drove along the road that runs along the Loch-side. Normally we'd carry on to the roads end and turn towards Grantown-on-Spey but the road is currently closed owing to a bridge collapsing earlier this year so there is now no option other than to turn around and return whence we came. We stopped to introduce ourselves to Alan Davies of "Big Twitch" fame, who was leading a tour group. As we chatted an Osprey appeared above the ridge but it showed no interest in fishing. I always watch the ridge closely since a few years back a Golden Eagle emerged from behind and then flew right over our heads. Unfortunately it was one of those rare occasions when I'd forgotten to take the camera of the boot of the car. As well as the Black-throated Divers, Lochindorb hosts other breeding birds and we soon found a small but plucky Common Sandpiper at the edge of the water. Common Sandpipers defend their breeding territory against all comers, including people in cars, and choose rocks and other lofty perches from which to deliver a scolding defence of any perceived threat. When we see these wading birds in Oxfordshire, usually at Farmoor, they are always extremely wary and will fly off as soon as you clap eyes on them. Here on their breeding grounds they become very confiding and offer up superb views and photo opportunities.
Another bird that you are sure to find on the shores of Lochindorb is the Oystercatcher and we found one which was preening while managing to glower at anybody looking its way. Oystercatchers are peculiar birds and I often think they are actually a little bit deranged. They have a habit of nesting in seemingly ridiculous places, like on the ornamental stones of a grave or in the middle of a roundabout but still have the pugnacity to raise their young in such places. Everybody recognises the long carrot-orange bill which a snowman would be proud of, and the accompanying deep red eyes and legs. They also make a racket with their loud piping calls. This bird that we watched from inside the car just stared angrily back as if to say, "I'm having a nap" and promptly did just that.
On the drive back away from Lochindorb we saw Red Grouse, Lapwing, Stonechat, and Cuckoo, all birds that you can expect to see in the area. Also in keeping with our normal routine of the first Sunday of our holiday in the area, we then took an excellent lunch at The Garth in Grantown, a place we've been visiting for twenty-five years. It's still as good as it ever was too.
Lochindorb is rightly proud of its Black-throated Divers and there is much signage and information on display around the Loch warning visitors of the risk of disturbance to the birds which are protected by law and should be left well alone. Many of the areas birds are rare breeding species in UK terms and all of them are protected by the same laws. One of these, the Slavonian Grebe was given some, rather far too much in my opinion, detailed coverage on the BBC Springwatch programme. We have been visiting the site where they were filmed for over twenty years, and until recently had rarely seen any other birders at the site. Unfortunately the TV programme gave far too many clues out as to the whereabouts the birds and increased disturbance ensued resulting in added restrictions. However, a major footpath runs through the site and close to the shore of the small lochan (which will remain unnamed here) where the birds breed, so that anybody is able to walk there. We chose to have a look there in the evening when I knew the sun wouldn't present a problem when trying to photograph the birds.
Things have changed there. Along the footpath there are many signs warning against disturbing the birds and imploring that the public stay to the path and don't walk down to the shore. Not that we would anyway. For the first half hour we couldn't find any Grebes anyway except for some Little Grebes that also breed on the lochan. On the walk back to the car, which as usual I had parked on the small approach road, I did spot a Slavonian grebe but it proved to be very difficult to observe. I did eventually manage to grab a couple of shots by secreting myself partially behind a conifer tree but not of the type I was hoping for.
Then the fun started. As we neared the car, a chap engaged me. I was half expecting him to because I'd seen him before and knew that he lived nearby and also knew that he is a self-pronounced guardian of the Grebes. In fact a friend of mine had stayed in one of the holiday cottages bordering the lochan recently and had warned me that this chap would be on the prowl. Not that he was unfriendly or anything but he did begin by telling me in no uncertain terms that if we didn't leave the area then he would call the police! I explained that I'd been visiting the lochan for many years and knew of the Grebes and of the laws and had always stayed on the path. After a while of him telling me that the police had many powers, including the ability to confiscate my camera equipment, I did manage to placate him a bit and we had a long chat about the welfare of the birds and he told me how the Grebes are being continually disturbed by other visiting birders. I guess that even though we meant no harm to the birds, unfortunately many others do, even if inadvertently, and because of that birders en masse were no longer welcome at the site. This was a great shame to me because I'd always enjoyed visiting the lochan and watching the Slavonian Grebes. Apparently parking on the entry road was my biggest mistake, even though I'd always parked there, and I was told in no uncertain never to park there again. We took that warning a step further and Mrs Caley and I vowed there and then that we wouldn't go there ever again and would get our Slavonian Grebe fix at another site further north in future. We know where we're not wanted. If you are visiting the area and know of the site, be warned, it isn't as easy going as it was.
Tomorrow we would head north to the Brora area in the hope of twitching a spectacular and major rarity!
Year List addition;
231) Black-throated Diver